Chinatown - Niu Che Shui
Before the arrival of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles in 1819, a small population of Chinese immigrants had already settled in Singapore, cultivating gambier and pepper. Shortly after establishing Singapore as a free port in 1819, Sir Stamford Raffles instructed Lieutenant Philip Jackson, an engineer, to draw up a master plan dividing the town into four areas for easy administration - the European, Malay, Indian and Chinese quarters.
Between the 19th and mid-20th centuries, millions left their homes in China driven by famine, floods and unrest, and seduced by the hope of a better life elsewhere. They left in masses with many of them made their way to Nanyang, the southern seas. Singapore, in particular, was sought out as a place where one could earn a living. The new arrival is known as Sinkheh, or 'new guest' in Hokkien. That was what the Straits-born Chinese, who had arrived several generations earlier, called these new Chinese immigrants. It became what the newcomers were known. Into a new world they came, and brought with them their hopes and uncertain dreams, old feuds and bonds.
Seeing that the Chinese would form the largest ethnic group, Raffles designated Southwest of Singapore River along Boat Quay, then a swampy forested swathe as the Chinese Kampung for the early Chinese immigrants. The various dialect groups settled in distinct parts of Chinatown: the Hokkiens along Telok Ayer Street, the Teochews along Merchant Road and the Cantonese in the core of Chinatown.
As the only source of fresh water came from the many wells in Ann Siang Hill and at Spring Street, the Chinese had to collect fresh water via a unique method - bullock-drawn carts. This then became the name of Chinatown's mandarin name, Niu Che Shui, which means bullock cart water. As more sinkheh arrived, the Chinese quarter rapidly developed into a sprawling settlement. This area south of the river became known as Tua Po, the 'greater town', while the area north of the river, the Muslim and European quarters, was called Sio Po, or "smaller town'.
For much of its history, Chinatown was ruled by powerful secret societies. These societies controlled nearly every aspect of life, from vice trades to respectable businesses. To the sinkheh, joining a secret society was not a matter of choice. The society saw to his welfare, found him work and would handle his burial if he should die here. Such membership had its hazards too.
Secret societies vied for territories and businesses, often resulting in violent fights where lives were lost. Pickering saw that to govern the Chinese, he had to gain the trust of the secret societies' headmen. Through measures such as compulsory registration of societies, Pickering gradually established the Chinese Protectorate as an authority to which sinkheh could turn for help, thereby limiting the control of secret societies over them.
Kreta Ayer (meaning water cart in Malay) Road exists till today, where it was the name given to Chinatown in the early 1800s and was known as tua poh (greater town district) in the 19th century. A moy Street is located in historic Telok Ayer - one of the four subdistricts in Singapore's Chinatown. Telok Ayer was the first subdistrict to be developed in the 1820s, followed by Kreta Ayer in the 1830s, Bukit Pasoh in the early 1900s, and Tanjong Pagar in the 1920s. Telok Ayer Street once ran close to and parallel to the original shoreline.
Many Chinese, Malay, Indian and Arab immigrants landed at Telok Ayer from the early 1820s when Sir Stamford Raffles landed Singapore in 1819 and declared Singapore to be a free port. These immigrants built the temples and mosques that fronted the sea to give thanks for their safe passage to Singapore.
Colloquially known as the back of Thian Hock Keng which is located along Telok Ayer Street, Amoy Street was an important place for religion, commerce, Chinese clan association activities, and education. Being part of the Telok Ayer subdistrict, Amoy Sheet was accorded conservation status in 1989. Many of the original shophouses have been restored and are now home to modern businesses dotted with restaurants, cafes and bars.
Brothels were common all over Chinatown. Japanese brothels were present too but mainly concentrated at Trengganu Street. Thus, Trengganu Street was also known as Yap Pun Kai, or Japanese Street. Until the pre-war years, Japanese prostitutes plied their trade along this street in an oddly noble effort to help finance their country's military campaigns. Besides the brothels, a number of coolie houses also operated on Trengganu Street. In these houses, hundreds of indentured labourers, mostly peasants from southern China, awaited their fate, which lay in the hands of agents and employers.
Other impoverished workers also eked out a living here. Every day, Chinatown's food hawkers would descend onto Trengganu Street, a routine that endured until the hawkers were moved into Chinatown Complex. As you walk around Chinatown, you can read the various colourful histories of each street such as the coolie business was once found at 37 Pagoda Street and about the Chinese immigrants who smoked opium to forget their hardship. And along Pagoda Street you will also find a sculpture of a Samsui woman wearing a distinctive red headdress and a loose black jacket and trousers called samfool.
Samsui women immigrants from a part of Southern China moving to Singapore in the early 20th century looking for work). Besides serving as an early form of safety helmet, the hat was also used to keep money, cigarettes and other personal items. Most Samsui women worked on construction sites helping to carry building materials or to clear debris. Others worked in rubber or tin plantations or as domestic workers. The name Samsui is a district in the province of Guangdong in Southern China.
Today Chinatown is a prosperous commercial hub with street market and shops selling souvenirs, knick-knacks, Chinese herbs and medicines, around the main attraction, which is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. There are two big hawker centres in Chinatown. The Chinatown Complex just opposite the back of temple and Maxwell Road Food Centre just across the street from the temple both contain local cuisines with several stalls attaining Michelin Bib Gourmand awards. If you are to walk along South Bridge Road, other than Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, you will also find a hindu temple and a mosque.
Chinatown Complex include a market at the basement selling fruits and vegetables, though along Trengganu and Sago Streets you will also find many fruit sellers selling tropical fruits including local favourites, the durians. Chinatown Food Street at Smith Street is an assembly of street hawker stalls, shophouse cafes and restaurants and ad hoc kiosks, complete with the al-fresco dining style along the fully pedestrianised street.
A popular Lai Chun Yuen Theatre once stood along Smith Street, thus the street was once known as a theatre street. At its peak, Lai Chun Yuen was where the rich entertained and Hong Kong opera stars performed. Patrons were served titbits and tea as they watched performances. Wealthier patrons would pay more for private cubicles. You can find a wall mural of a Chinese opera along Smith Street. Well, you can find many wall murals all over Chinatown that depict the histories of the streets.
Every Lunar New Year (in January or February), the streets of Chinatown come alive with the sight and sounds of traditional music, the sights of lion dancers and the tantalising smells wafting from the annual bazaar andTrengganu Street is filled with the hustle and bustle of street sellers, jamming the pavements and touting their wares late into the night.
During the Chinatown Street Light Up, the streets feel especially atmospheric and colourful with the colour s of mostly yellowish gold or red which represent good luck! Displays of yellow or golden coloured pineapples or oranges are abundant. While during the Mid-Autumn Festival, bright lantern displays of various shapes and sizes can also be seen hanging above the streets. And Chinatown, being one of the oldest districts in Singapore, you will find a group of seniors playing Chinese chess just in front of Chinatown Complex. And interesting sight indeed.
Chinatown is well served by several MRT stations, the Chinatown Interchange Station (Exit A) being closest to the heart of Chinatown that will connect you directly to the main thoroughfare of Pagoda, Trengganu and Sago Streets. Maxwell MRT Station will bring you to the doorstep of Maxwell Food Centre and is just across the main entrance of Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, while Telok Ayer Station is closer to Amoy Street and Kreta Ayer.
Between the 19th and mid-20th centuries, millions left their homes in China driven by famine, floods and unrest, and seduced by the hope of a better life elsewhere. They left in masses with many of them made their way to Nanyang, the southern seas. Singapore, in particular, was sought out as a place where one could earn a living. The new arrival is known as Sinkheh, or 'new guest' in Hokkien. That was what the Straits-born Chinese, who had arrived several generations earlier, called these new Chinese immigrants. It became what the newcomers were known. Into a new world they came, and brought with them their hopes and uncertain dreams, old feuds and bonds.
Seeing that the Chinese would form the largest ethnic group, Raffles designated Southwest of Singapore River along Boat Quay, then a swampy forested swathe as the Chinese Kampung for the early Chinese immigrants. The various dialect groups settled in distinct parts of Chinatown: the Hokkiens along Telok Ayer Street, the Teochews along Merchant Road and the Cantonese in the core of Chinatown.
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For much of its history, Chinatown was ruled by powerful secret societies. These societies controlled nearly every aspect of life, from vice trades to respectable businesses. To the sinkheh, joining a secret society was not a matter of choice. The society saw to his welfare, found him work and would handle his burial if he should die here. Such membership had its hazards too.
Secret societies vied for territories and businesses, often resulting in violent fights where lives were lost. Pickering saw that to govern the Chinese, he had to gain the trust of the secret societies' headmen. Through measures such as compulsory registration of societies, Pickering gradually established the Chinese Protectorate as an authority to which sinkheh could turn for help, thereby limiting the control of secret societies over them.
Kreta Ayer (meaning water cart in Malay) Road exists till today, where it was the name given to Chinatown in the early 1800s and was known as tua poh (greater town district) in the 19th century. A moy Street is located in historic Telok Ayer - one of the four subdistricts in Singapore's Chinatown. Telok Ayer was the first subdistrict to be developed in the 1820s, followed by Kreta Ayer in the 1830s, Bukit Pasoh in the early 1900s, and Tanjong Pagar in the 1920s. Telok Ayer Street once ran close to and parallel to the original shoreline.
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| Thian Hock Keng Temple |
Colloquially known as the back of Thian Hock Keng which is located along Telok Ayer Street, Amoy Street was an important place for religion, commerce, Chinese clan association activities, and education. Being part of the Telok Ayer subdistrict, Amoy Sheet was accorded conservation status in 1989. Many of the original shophouses have been restored and are now home to modern businesses dotted with restaurants, cafes and bars.
Brothels were common all over Chinatown. Japanese brothels were present too but mainly concentrated at Trengganu Street. Thus, Trengganu Street was also known as Yap Pun Kai, or Japanese Street. Until the pre-war years, Japanese prostitutes plied their trade along this street in an oddly noble effort to help finance their country's military campaigns. Besides the brothels, a number of coolie houses also operated on Trengganu Street. In these houses, hundreds of indentured labourers, mostly peasants from southern China, awaited their fate, which lay in the hands of agents and employers.
 |
| Sculpture of a Samsui Woman |
Samsui women immigrants from a part of Southern China moving to Singapore in the early 20th century looking for work). Besides serving as an early form of safety helmet, the hat was also used to keep money, cigarettes and other personal items. Most Samsui women worked on construction sites helping to carry building materials or to clear debris. Others worked in rubber or tin plantations or as domestic workers. The name Samsui is a district in the province of Guangdong in Southern China.
Today Chinatown is a prosperous commercial hub with street market and shops selling souvenirs, knick-knacks, Chinese herbs and medicines, around the main attraction, which is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. There are two big hawker centres in Chinatown. The Chinatown Complex just opposite the back of temple and Maxwell Road Food Centre just across the street from the temple both contain local cuisines with several stalls attaining Michelin Bib Gourmand awards. If you are to walk along South Bridge Road, other than Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, you will also find a hindu temple and a mosque.
 |
| Buddha Tooth Relic Temple |
A popular Lai Chun Yuen Theatre once stood along Smith Street, thus the street was once known as a theatre street. At its peak, Lai Chun Yuen was where the rich entertained and Hong Kong opera stars performed. Patrons were served titbits and tea as they watched performances. Wealthier patrons would pay more for private cubicles. You can find a wall mural of a Chinese opera along Smith Street. Well, you can find many wall murals all over Chinatown that depict the histories of the streets.
Every Lunar New Year (in January or February), the streets of Chinatown come alive with the sight and sounds of traditional music, the sights of lion dancers and the tantalising smells wafting from the annual bazaar andTrengganu Street is filled with the hustle and bustle of street sellers, jamming the pavements and touting their wares late into the night.
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| Chinese Medicinal Hall |
Chinatown is well served by several MRT stations, the Chinatown Interchange Station (Exit A) being closest to the heart of Chinatown that will connect you directly to the main thoroughfare of Pagoda, Trengganu and Sago Streets. Maxwell MRT Station will bring you to the doorstep of Maxwell Food Centre and is just across the main entrance of Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, while Telok Ayer Station is closer to Amoy Street and Kreta Ayer.
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