Chinatown - Niu Che Shui - Once bullock water-cart town
Before the arrival of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles in 1819, a small population of Chinese immigrants had already settled in Singapore, cultivating gambier and pepper. Shortly after establishing Singapore as a free port in 1819, Sir Stamford Raffles instructed Lieutenant Philip Jackson, an engineer, to draw up a master plan dividing the town into four areas for easy administration - the European, Malay, Indian and Chinese ethnic quarters.
Between the 19th and mid-20th centuries, millions left their homes in China driven by famine, floods and unrest, and seduced by the hope of a better life elsewhere. They left in masses with many of them made their way to Nanyang, the southern seas. Singapore, in particular, was sought out as a place where one could earn a living. The new arrival is known as Sinkheh, or 'new guest' in Hokkien. That was what the Straits-born Chinese, who had arrived several generations earlier, called these new Chinese immigrants. It became what the newcomers were known. Into a new world they came, and brought with them their hopes and uncertain dreams, old feuds and bonds.
Seeing that the Chinese would form the largest ethnic group, Raffles designated Southwest of Singapore River along Boat Quay, then a swampy forested swathe as the Chinese Kampung for the early Chinese immigrants. The various dialect groups settled in distinct parts of Chinatown: the Hokkiens along Telok Ayer Street, the Teochews along Merchant Road and the Cantonese in the core of Chinatown.
As the only source of fresh water came from the many wells in Ann Siang Hill and at Spring Street, the Chinese had to collect fresh water via a unique method - bullock-drawn carts. This then became the name of Chinatown's mandarin name, Niu Che Shui, which means bullock cart water. As more sinkheh arrived, the Chinese quarter rapidly developed into a sprawling settlement. This area south of the river became known as Tua Po, the 'greater town', while the area north of the river, the Muslim and European quarters, was called Sio Po, or "smaller town'.
For much of its history, Chinatown was ruled by powerful secret societies. These societies controlled nearly every aspect of life, from vice trades to respectable businesses. To the sinkheh, joining a secret society was not a matter of choice. The society saw to his welfare, found him work and would handle his burial if he should die here. Such membership had its hazards too.
Secret societies vied for territories and businesses, often resulting in violent fights where lives were lost. Pickering saw that to govern the Chinese, he had to gain the trust of the secret societies' headmen. Through measures such as compulsory registration of societies, Pickering gradually established the Chinese Protectorate as an authority to which sinkheh could turn for help, thereby limiting the control of secret societies over them.
Kreta Ayer (meaning water cart in Malay) Road exists till today, where it was the name given to Chinatown in the early 1800s and was known as tua poh (greater town district) in the 19th century. Amoy Street is located in historic Telok Ayer being one of the four subdistricts in Singapore's Chinatown.
Between the 19th and mid-20th centuries, millions left their homes in China driven by famine, floods and unrest, and seduced by the hope of a better life elsewhere. They left in masses with many of them made their way to Nanyang, the southern seas. Singapore, in particular, was sought out as a place where one could earn a living. The new arrival is known as Sinkheh, or 'new guest' in Hokkien. That was what the Straits-born Chinese, who had arrived several generations earlier, called these new Chinese immigrants. It became what the newcomers were known. Into a new world they came, and brought with them their hopes and uncertain dreams, old feuds and bonds.
Seeing that the Chinese would form the largest ethnic group, Raffles designated Southwest of Singapore River along Boat Quay, then a swampy forested swathe as the Chinese Kampung for the early Chinese immigrants. The various dialect groups settled in distinct parts of Chinatown: the Hokkiens along Telok Ayer Street, the Teochews along Merchant Road and the Cantonese in the core of Chinatown.
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| Brutalist design of People's Park Complex |
For much of its history, Chinatown was ruled by powerful secret societies. These societies controlled nearly every aspect of life, from vice trades to respectable businesses. To the sinkheh, joining a secret society was not a matter of choice. The society saw to his welfare, found him work and would handle his burial if he should die here. Such membership had its hazards too.
Secret societies vied for territories and businesses, often resulting in violent fights where lives were lost. Pickering saw that to govern the Chinese, he had to gain the trust of the secret societies' headmen. Through measures such as compulsory registration of societies, Pickering gradually established the Chinese Protectorate as an authority to which sinkheh could turn for help, thereby limiting the control of secret societies over them.
Kreta Ayer (meaning water cart in Malay) Road exists till today, where it was the name given to Chinatown in the early 1800s and was known as tua poh (greater town district) in the 19th century. Amoy Street is located in historic Telok Ayer being one of the four subdistricts in Singapore's Chinatown.
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| Thian Hock Keng Temple |
Telok Ayer was the first subdistrict to be developed in the 1820s, followed by Kreta Ayer in the 1830s, Bukit Pasoh in the early 1900s, and Tanjong Pagar in the 1920s. Telok Ayer Street once ran close to and parallel to the original shoreline.
Many Chinese, Malay, Indian and Arab immigrants landed at Telok Ayer from the early 1820s when Sir Stamford Raffles landed Singapore in 1819 and declared Singapore to be a free port. These immigrants built the temples and mosques that fronted the sea to give thanks for their safe passage to Singapore.
Built in 1840, Thian Hock Keng Temple served as a significant gathering point for Hokkiens. It is dedicated to Ma Zu, the Goddess of the Seas, for their safe voyages. The temple features traditional southern Chinese architectural styles and intricate carvings. Recognized as a national monument in 1973, it underwent extensive restoration from 1998 to 2001. The temple's roof shaped like a swallow tail of curved ridges and elongated eves, is believed by devotees to ward off evil spirits. The four dancing dragons symbolise strength, justice and authority while the circular pearl in the middle represents striving towards perfection of the ideas of the symbolism of the mighty dragons.
Colloquially known as the back of Thian Hock Keng which is located along Telok Ayer Street, Amoy Street was an important place for religion, commerce, Chinese clan association activities, and education. Being part of the Telok Ayer subdistrict, Amoy Sheet was accorded conservation status in 1989. Many of the original shophouses have been restored and are now home to modern businesses dotted with restaurants, cafes and bars.
Shophouses which can be seen all around Chinatown were built in rows and connected by sheltered walkways called the five-foot-way. Shophouses typically comprised of a shop doing business on the ground floor, with the upper floors occupied by people and families for residential purposes.
Brothels were common all over Chinatown. Japanese brothels were present too but mainly concentrated at Trengganu Street. Thus, Trengganu Street was also known as Yap Pun Kai, or Japanese Street. Until the pre-war years, Japanese prostitutes plied their trade along this street in an oddly noble effort to help finance their country's military campaigns. Besides the brothels, a number of coolie houses also operated on Trengganu Street. In these houses, hundreds of indentured labourers, mostly peasants from southern China, awaited their fate, which lay in the hands of agents and employers.
Other impoverished workers also eked out a living here. Every day, Chinatown's food hawkers would descend onto Trengganu Street, a routine that endured until the hawkers were moved into Chinatown Complex. As you walk around Chinatown, you can read the various colourful histories of each street such as the coolie business was once found at 37 Pagoda Street and about the Chinese immigrants who smoked opium to forget their hardship. So, along with prostitution, came other social ills such as crime and opium smoking.
Interestingly, Pagoda Street is named after the gopuram of Sri Mariamman Temple, not an actual pagoda. Established in 1827, Sri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore and is located in Chinatown. Built by Narayana Pillai, it served as a shelter for Indian immigrants. This Hindu temple is known for its healing powers and the fire-walking ceremony, Theemithi, which is held annually. The gopuram (entrance tower) dates back to the 1930s.
And along Pagoda Street in front of Chinatown Heritage Centre, you will also find a sombre-looking sculpture of a Samsui woman wearing a distinctive red headdress and a loose black jacket and trousers called samfool. Samsui women were immigrants who moved to Singapore from a part of Southern China in the early 20th century looking for work. Besides serving as an early form of safety helmet, the hat was also used to keep money, cigarettes and other personal items.
Most Samsui women worked on construction sites helping to carry building materials or to clear debris. Others worked in rubber or tin plantations or as domestic workers. The name Samsui is a district in the province of Guangdong in Southern China. Chinatown Heritage Centre, housed within few levels of restored shophouses, is a recreation of the various trades, clans associations, social aspects and lives of the early Chinese immigrants including the secret soceities and opium smoking. This centre is quite small but packed with information, artefacts and interactive displays, and is a good starting point for visitors to learn about the history of the Chinese community in Singapore, though entry fees apply.
Today Chinatown is a prosperous commercial hub with street market and shops selling souvenirs, knick-knacks, Chinese herbs and medicines, around the main attraction, which is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Many souvenirs sell for only a dollar or two, so a bargain for tourists looking for memories and inexpensive souvenirs to bring home. Officially opened in 2007 the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum is a magnificent and prominent temple in the heart of Chinatown.
It was built to house what is believed to be the left canine tooth of the Buddha, a sacred relic highly revered in the Buddhist world, which is located on the forth floor of the temple. Photography is not permitted in this hall to maintain its sanctity. The first floor is the primary worship hall with a grand and ornate, decorated Buddha figure dedicated to Sakyamuni Buddha (the historical Buddha) at the centre. At certain times of the day in the morning and afternoon you will be able to see and hear the monks chanting in resonance. It is a common practice to walk clockwise around the main shrine and the stupa.
The temple's design is inspired by the Tang dynasty architectural style, which was a golden age for Chinese culture and Buddhism. The building serves not only as a place of worship but there is also as a museum and cultural center, offering visitors a deep insight into Buddhist art, history, and culture. The museum on the third storey with a fascinating collection of Buddhist artifacts from various regions such as China, Tibet, India, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Myanmar. ou can also see a piece of bone relic of the Buddha here.
The exhibits provide excellent context on the spread of Buddhism across Asia. There is also a calm and serene roof garden with the Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda, a large prayer wheel surrounded by smaller statues. Rotating the prayer wheel is believed to generate merit.
There are two big hawker centres in Chinatown. The Chinatown Complex just opposite the back of temple and Maxwell Road Food Centre just across the street from the temple both contain local cuisines with several stalls attaining Michelin Bib Gourmand awards such as the popular Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall. Opened in 1983, Chinatown Complex Market is Singapore's largest hawker centre with around 700 stalls. Known for traditional Chinese hawker cuisine, it retains architectural elements of Chinatown.
Chinatown Complex include a market at the basement selling seafood, fruits, vegetables and fresh flowers, though along Trengganu and Sago Streets you will also find many fruit sellers selling tropical fruits including local perennial favourites, the durians. Though during durian season, durians can be found all across the island, not just in Chinatown, so for locals, Chinatown is not exactly a place to look for durians as being at touristy area, durians there can be a bit expensive.
And for those buying whole durians be aware that the weight of durians include the heavy thorny husk as well. While Chinatown Food Street at Smith Street is an assembly of street hawker stalls, more upmarket shophouse cafes and restaurants and ad hoc kiosks, complete with the al-fresco dining style along the fully pedestrianised street.
A popular Lai Chun Yuen Theatre once stood along Smith Street, thus the street was once known as a theatre street. Originally styled as a teahouse, it was built in 1887. At its peak, Lai Chun Yuen was where the rich entertained and Hong Kong opera stars performed. Patrons were served titbits and tea as they watched performances. Wealthier patrons would pay more for private cubicles. You can find a wall mural of a Chinese opera along Smith Street. Well, you can find many wall murals all over Chinatown that depict the histories of the streets.
Every Lunar New Year (in January or February), the streets of Chinatown come alive with the sight and sounds of traditional music, the sights of lion dancers and the tantalising smells wafting from the annual bazaar and Trengganu Street is filled with the hustle and bustle of street sellers, jamming the pavements and touting their wares late into the night.
During the Chinatown Street Light Up, the streets feel especially atmospheric and colourful with the colour s of mostly yellowish gold or red which represent good luck! Displays of yellow or golden coloured pineapples or oranges are abundant. While during the Mid-Autumn Festival, bright lantern displays of various shapes and sizes can also be seen hanging above and along the main streets of South Bridge Road and Eu Tong Sen Street. And in Chinatown, being one of the oldest districts in Singapore, you will find a group of seniors playing Chinese chess just in front of Chinatown Complex. And interesting sight indeed. Do you know that Chinatown Complex was originally named Niu Che Shui Da Sha, meaning Bullock Water Cart Complex?
If you are to walk along South Bridge Road, other than Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, you will also find a hindu temple mentioned above and a mosque called Jamae Mosque. Thus the street next to the mosque is called Mosque Street. So, three parallel streets in Chinatown named after three different places of worship that can be found there. Isn't that interesting?
Many Chinese, Malay, Indian and Arab immigrants landed at Telok Ayer from the early 1820s when Sir Stamford Raffles landed Singapore in 1819 and declared Singapore to be a free port. These immigrants built the temples and mosques that fronted the sea to give thanks for their safe passage to Singapore.
Built in 1840, Thian Hock Keng Temple served as a significant gathering point for Hokkiens. It is dedicated to Ma Zu, the Goddess of the Seas, for their safe voyages. The temple features traditional southern Chinese architectural styles and intricate carvings. Recognized as a national monument in 1973, it underwent extensive restoration from 1998 to 2001. The temple's roof shaped like a swallow tail of curved ridges and elongated eves, is believed by devotees to ward off evil spirits. The four dancing dragons symbolise strength, justice and authority while the circular pearl in the middle represents striving towards perfection of the ideas of the symbolism of the mighty dragons.
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| Smith Street Wall Mural of a Chinese Opera |
Shophouses which can be seen all around Chinatown were built in rows and connected by sheltered walkways called the five-foot-way. Shophouses typically comprised of a shop doing business on the ground floor, with the upper floors occupied by people and families for residential purposes.
Brothels were common all over Chinatown. Japanese brothels were present too but mainly concentrated at Trengganu Street. Thus, Trengganu Street was also known as Yap Pun Kai, or Japanese Street. Until the pre-war years, Japanese prostitutes plied their trade along this street in an oddly noble effort to help finance their country's military campaigns. Besides the brothels, a number of coolie houses also operated on Trengganu Street. In these houses, hundreds of indentured labourers, mostly peasants from southern China, awaited their fate, which lay in the hands of agents and employers.
 |
| Sculpture of a Samsui Woman |
Interestingly, Pagoda Street is named after the gopuram of Sri Mariamman Temple, not an actual pagoda. Established in 1827, Sri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore and is located in Chinatown. Built by Narayana Pillai, it served as a shelter for Indian immigrants. This Hindu temple is known for its healing powers and the fire-walking ceremony, Theemithi, which is held annually. The gopuram (entrance tower) dates back to the 1930s.
And along Pagoda Street in front of Chinatown Heritage Centre, you will also find a sombre-looking sculpture of a Samsui woman wearing a distinctive red headdress and a loose black jacket and trousers called samfool. Samsui women were immigrants who moved to Singapore from a part of Southern China in the early 20th century looking for work. Besides serving as an early form of safety helmet, the hat was also used to keep money, cigarettes and other personal items.
 |
| Chinatown Heritage Centre |
Today Chinatown is a prosperous commercial hub with street market and shops selling souvenirs, knick-knacks, Chinese herbs and medicines, around the main attraction, which is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Many souvenirs sell for only a dollar or two, so a bargain for tourists looking for memories and inexpensive souvenirs to bring home. Officially opened in 2007 the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum is a magnificent and prominent temple in the heart of Chinatown.
It was built to house what is believed to be the left canine tooth of the Buddha, a sacred relic highly revered in the Buddhist world, which is located on the forth floor of the temple. Photography is not permitted in this hall to maintain its sanctity. The first floor is the primary worship hall with a grand and ornate, decorated Buddha figure dedicated to Sakyamuni Buddha (the historical Buddha) at the centre. At certain times of the day in the morning and afternoon you will be able to see and hear the monks chanting in resonance. It is a common practice to walk clockwise around the main shrine and the stupa.
 |
| Buddha Tooth Relic Temple |
The exhibits provide excellent context on the spread of Buddhism across Asia. There is also a calm and serene roof garden with the Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda, a large prayer wheel surrounded by smaller statues. Rotating the prayer wheel is believed to generate merit.
There are two big hawker centres in Chinatown. The Chinatown Complex just opposite the back of temple and Maxwell Road Food Centre just across the street from the temple both contain local cuisines with several stalls attaining Michelin Bib Gourmand awards such as the popular Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall. Opened in 1983, Chinatown Complex Market is Singapore's largest hawker centre with around 700 stalls. Known for traditional Chinese hawker cuisine, it retains architectural elements of Chinatown.
 |
| Chinatown Complex |
And for those buying whole durians be aware that the weight of durians include the heavy thorny husk as well. While Chinatown Food Street at Smith Street is an assembly of street hawker stalls, more upmarket shophouse cafes and restaurants and ad hoc kiosks, complete with the al-fresco dining style along the fully pedestrianised street.
A popular Lai Chun Yuen Theatre once stood along Smith Street, thus the street was once known as a theatre street. Originally styled as a teahouse, it was built in 1887. At its peak, Lai Chun Yuen was where the rich entertained and Hong Kong opera stars performed. Patrons were served titbits and tea as they watched performances. Wealthier patrons would pay more for private cubicles. You can find a wall mural of a Chinese opera along Smith Street. Well, you can find many wall murals all over Chinatown that depict the histories of the streets.
 |
| Shophouses along Trengganu Street |
During the Chinatown Street Light Up, the streets feel especially atmospheric and colourful with the colour s of mostly yellowish gold or red which represent good luck! Displays of yellow or golden coloured pineapples or oranges are abundant. While during the Mid-Autumn Festival, bright lantern displays of various shapes and sizes can also be seen hanging above and along the main streets of South Bridge Road and Eu Tong Sen Street. And in Chinatown, being one of the oldest districts in Singapore, you will find a group of seniors playing Chinese chess just in front of Chinatown Complex. And interesting sight indeed. Do you know that Chinatown Complex was originally named Niu Che Shui Da Sha, meaning Bullock Water Cart Complex?
If you are to walk along South Bridge Road, other than Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, you will also find a hindu temple mentioned above and a mosque called Jamae Mosque. Thus the street next to the mosque is called Mosque Street. So, three parallel streets in Chinatown named after three different places of worship that can be found there. Isn't that interesting?
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| Shophouses and Street market along Pagoda Street |
The Jamae Mosque was built by the the Tamil Muslim immigrant around 1830 and was designated a national monument in 1974. The front gate of the mosque is of South Indian origin. Above the gate, in-between the twin minarets the building is topped with onion-shaped domes. The building architecture exhibits the influences of both East and West.
And not too far away at the junction of South Bridge Road and Cross Street, there was once a Sook Ching Centre which is a temporary registration center for the Japanese Military Police were set up during World War II for the screening and execution of suspected anti-Japanese elements. Thousands of Chinese men and some women were killed during this purge. Cross Street is featured in the first implementation of Raffles' Plan for Chinatown. The long stretch of Cross Street and Upper Cross Stret connect the financial district to Chinatown. Cross Street probably got its name from people's habit of crossing these streets! Cross Street is also lined with shophouses, eateries, clan associations, public housing flats and entertainment places.
And on the outskirts of Chinatown, there is Hong Lim Park which is one of Singapore's earliest public parks. Renamed from Dunman’s Green in 1876 after Cheang Hong Lim, who converted it into a public park. It has been used for various recreational activities and political rallies, especially in the 1960s and 1970s and is home to Singapore's first Speakers' Corner, which was established in 2000.
And while walking along Temple Street, one will not miss the imposing yellow-coloured brutalist architecture of the People's Park Complex in the background with the Chinese writing on it which translated to 'Pearl Square'. The building has recently been repainted to a bolder red and white. With its raw boxy look, this brutalist building does has its admirers. People's Park Complex is located along Eu Tong Sen Street.
Eu Tong Sen Street was formerly part of Wayang Street, but was renamed after a philanthropist Eu Tong Sen in 1919. He rebuilt the street and boughtover the two existing Chinese opera theatres where the People’s Park Complex now stand. Wayang is a Malay/ Javanese word which means theater.
Before Temple Street got its name, it was called Almeida Street after Joaquim D'Almeida, son of the legendary Dr Jose D'Almeida. An influential merchant as well as a doctor, the Consul for Portugal, Dr D'Almeida owned the land on which this street was built. The Hokkiens had another name for Temple Street, that is, Gu Chia Chui Hi Hng Au, which means the street behind the Lai Chun Yuen theatre mentioned above. Dr Jose D'Almeida resting place is at Fort Canning Hill.
If you are to walk along Telok Ayer Street closer towards the financial district, you will find Fuk Tak Chi Temple which is one of the oldest Chinese teples in Singapore. The temple's patron deity is Dai Bak Gong (or Tua Peh Kong in Hokkien). It is also known as Fu De Zheng Shen (God of Wealth and Merit). The temple is founded by Hakka and Cantonese immigrants as a place of worship and a social meeting point between the two communities. If you are a comic book fan of Tintin, there is a store along South Bridge Road near Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.
Chinatown is well served by several MRT stations, the Chinatown Interchange Station (Exit A) being closest to the heart of Chinatown that will connect you directly to the main thoroughfare of Pagoda, Trengganu and Sago Streets. Maxwell MRT Station will bring you to the doorstep of Maxwell Food Centre and is just across the main entrance of Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, while Telok Ayer Station is closer to Amoy Street and Kreta Ayer.
And not too far away at the junction of South Bridge Road and Cross Street, there was once a Sook Ching Centre which is a temporary registration center for the Japanese Military Police were set up during World War II for the screening and execution of suspected anti-Japanese elements. Thousands of Chinese men and some women were killed during this purge. Cross Street is featured in the first implementation of Raffles' Plan for Chinatown. The long stretch of Cross Street and Upper Cross Stret connect the financial district to Chinatown. Cross Street probably got its name from people's habit of crossing these streets! Cross Street is also lined with shophouses, eateries, clan associations, public housing flats and entertainment places.
And on the outskirts of Chinatown, there is Hong Lim Park which is one of Singapore's earliest public parks. Renamed from Dunman’s Green in 1876 after Cheang Hong Lim, who converted it into a public park. It has been used for various recreational activities and political rallies, especially in the 1960s and 1970s and is home to Singapore's first Speakers' Corner, which was established in 2000.
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| A typical Chinese Medicinal Hall |
Eu Tong Sen Street was formerly part of Wayang Street, but was renamed after a philanthropist Eu Tong Sen in 1919. He rebuilt the street and boughtover the two existing Chinese opera theatres where the People’s Park Complex now stand. Wayang is a Malay/ Javanese word which means theater.
Before Temple Street got its name, it was called Almeida Street after Joaquim D'Almeida, son of the legendary Dr Jose D'Almeida. An influential merchant as well as a doctor, the Consul for Portugal, Dr D'Almeida owned the land on which this street was built. The Hokkiens had another name for Temple Street, that is, Gu Chia Chui Hi Hng Au, which means the street behind the Lai Chun Yuen theatre mentioned above. Dr Jose D'Almeida resting place is at Fort Canning Hill.
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| Market from Chinatown MRT Station Exit A |
Chinatown is well served by several MRT stations, the Chinatown Interchange Station (Exit A) being closest to the heart of Chinatown that will connect you directly to the main thoroughfare of Pagoda, Trengganu and Sago Streets. Maxwell MRT Station will bring you to the doorstep of Maxwell Food Centre and is just across the main entrance of Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, while Telok Ayer Station is closer to Amoy Street and Kreta Ayer.
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