Fort Canning Park - Once forbidden hill, fortress, spice and romantic garden
Fort Canning Hill is one of Singapore’s most historic landmarks. It was originally a cone-shaped mound that stood at a height of 48 metres above sea level. It was very likely that in the 14th century, the royal palace of ancient Malay rulers stood on the summit of this once “Forbidden Hill”. The memory of this was still alive that when the British arrived in 1819, the Malays refused to climb the hill, known as Bukit Larangan in Malay, saying that it was forbidden without the permission of the ancient rulers.
In Southeast Asian cultures, hills and mountains were associated with supernatural and divine powers. Major General William Farquhar, the first resident and commandant of Singapore ascended the hill with the Malaccan Malays in 1819, since the locals were unwilling to climb, and atop the hill he fired a salute and erected a pole from which the Union Jack was flown. The hill was renamed Government Hill.
One of the largest ruins discovered by the British was a keramat, or shrine, which purportedly contains the remains of Sri Sultan Iskandar Shah, the fifth and last ruler of 14th century Singapore, hence give credence of the Forbidden Hill. Though according to Sejarah Melayu or the Malay Annals, it could also be the burial place of the first ruler of Singapura, Sri Tri Buana, or more commonly known as Sang Nila Utama, the legendary king that gives Singapore its name. He reigned for 48 years and was buried at Bukit Larangan, now Fort Canning. Sang Nila Utama (1299-1347) was a prince from Palembang in present-day Indonesia.
When Singapore fell to an enemy attack during the 14th century, the last ancient king, Iskandar Shah escaped into the forest and two years later founded another great kingdom, Melaka. He was reported to have died around 1420 but no records of his place of death. Till this day the origins of Keramat Iskandar Shah are still unknown, however it is revered by various faiths. So, there are a total of five ancient kings that ruled Singapore in the 14th century and the Five Kings Walk at Fort Canning traces the tales from the reign of the five rulers of Singapura.
There was also a legend of a strongman known as Badang, who was served in the court of the third ancient king, Sri Rana Wikerna. Sri Rana Wikerna was the son of Paduka Sri Pikrama Wira, the sone of Sang Nila Untama. So Badang, who was granted a superhuman strength by a mythical demon he had caught stealing his fish hurled a boulder from Fort Canning to the mouth of Singapore River, near present-day Fullerton Hotel.
This boulder, known as Singapore Stone, split into two equal halves facing each other at an angle of about 40 degrees. However, in 1843, the British blew up the boulder to build military quarters not realising that the stone dated back to the 14th century with inscriptions of Kawi, an old Sumatran script, and Sanskrit, though it was never fully deciphered. There is Badang Terrace along Five Kings Walk dedicated to Badang. A fragment of Singapore Stone is displayed at the National Museum, which is situated right below and in front of Fort Canning Hill.
At Government Hill the British built and housed a communication center, with important communication devices such as the flagstaff, time ball, lighthouse and a telegraph office. Now the flagstaff, the 12 metres tall aluminium timeball and lighthouse at the hill, at Maritime Corner, are replicas of the original that used to stand on Fort Canning Hill. The flagstaff provided pertinent information on the arrival, identity, location, and status of ships entering Singapore harbour. The timeball was a device to signal the correct time to the public in the 19th century.
The first flagstaff was already standing in 1825 with another standing on Mt Faber. The lighthouse was one of Singapore’s most prominent landmarks for ships entering the harbour. The total elevation of 60m (197 ft.) which is made possible by the combined height of the hill and lighthouse made the lighthouse visible 30 km (17 miles) away. In the 1950s, the lighthouse was overshadowed by tall buildings and was eventually closed in 1958. A new Fullerton Lighthouse was erected on top of Fullerton Building (now Fullerton Hotel) until 1979, which was then dismantled and replaced by Bedok Lighthouse, the first automated lighthouse that did not require any lighthouse keeper to man it.
During the period of global exploration and colonisation, spices were equivalent to gold, and competition were fierce among the Dutch, Portuguese, English and Spanish for control over the sources and routes of the South-East Asia's Spice Islands and India. Thus, the founding of Singapore played an important role in giving British traders a foothold in South-East Asia and marked the beginning of the decline of Dutch monopoly of the spice trade.
In 1822 due to the hill’s vantage point Sir Stamford Raffles built his bungalow near the "18th Century Walk", and it was to become the place of residence for subsequent residents including John Crawfurd, the second Resident. Also, in1822, Sir Stamford Raffles, being a keen naturalist, set up the first Botanical Experimental Garden in Singapore on Government Hill. Raffles aimed to introduce the cultivation of economic crops in Singapore. The Garden stared out with 125 nutmeg trees, 1,000 nutmeg seeds and 450 clove trees, thus forming the foundation of Singapore’s Spice plantation which eventually dominated the island landscape for the next 35 years, though by late 1820s the spice plantation became less and less profitable and the experimental garden was populated with ornamental and fragrant trees.
The garden soon became a popular sightseeing destination and was described as romantic and was the closest thing in Singapore to a recreational park at the time. Raffles bungalow was demolished in 1859 to make way for fortification. Interestingly in 1859, Singapore Botanics Gardens was established which eventually earned recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015.
Government hill was converted into a fort in 1860 and renamed Fort Canning in honour of Lord Charles John Canning, the last Governor-General of India from 1856 to 1858 under the British East India Company. He was made the first Viceroy of India in 1858 and became Earl Canning the following year. Around 1920s to 1930s, the hill was transformed into an artillery fort with barracks, officers’ quarters, old gunpowder magazine and a hospital.
The fort served two purposes, to protect Singapore from attack by sea, and to give Singapore’s European population a refuge in the event of local disturbances such as the Indian mutiny of 1857. The fort low thick wall was meant to withstand artillery bombardment rather than to repel an infantry attack. It was constructed of granite on the outside and a brick facing the interior, with earthen fill to absorb cannon balls. The granite to build Fort Canning probably came from Pulau Ubin. When the British cleared the summit to build the fort, they left the keramat, the sacred tomb, undisturbed which you can still visit till this day. It was said that the forbidden hill is inhabited by ghosts, with the "sounds as of a hundred of men... heavy drums and of people shouting".
An underground bunker called the Battle Box was also constructed during the period. Key historic events also took place on Fort Canning Hill. Most notably, Lt-General Percival’s crucial decision to surrender to the Japanese was made in the Battle Box at Fort Canning Hill at 9:30am on 15 February 1942. That fateful decision led to the darkest days in Singapore when Singapore fell to the Japanese during World War II (WWII).
The attack on Singapore began with a diversionary attack on Pulau Ubin on 7 February 1942. By the next day, the Japanese made an amphibious landing on the north-west part of Singapore and began their push towards the city which was already being bombed heavily. The British, Australian, Indian and Malay troops commanded by Lt. General Arthur Percival, were ill-prepared for the ferocious onslaught. By 15th February, that fateful decision was made that changed history.
The battle-box was a 30-rooms 9 meters (30 ft.) underground that was supposed to be a command centre for the British military operations in South-East Asia. The 'box', completed in 1936, was part of the British Far East Command Centre responsible for British Military Operations in the region through to WWII. Entry to the Battle Box, now an attraction, is free, though they close every Monday and Tuesday, and you will need a ticket via 'Cinewav' app. It is worth a visit to see the dark days of Singapore where a fateful was made. No battle was ever fought in the 'Battle Box'.
The former military headquarters has now become Hotel Fort Canning and the Legends at Fort Canning Park. There is a street at Fort Canning bordering ASEAN Sculpture Garden named after Percival. There is a museum in the eastern part of Singapore called Changi Museum and Chapel that is dedicated to the darkest days in Singapore's and the prisoners of war during World War II. At the ASEAN Sculpture Garden there are pieces of sculptures by various artists from the ASEAN countries. The pieces include Balance, Unity (as shown above), Together, Concentration, Fredesvinda and Augury.
Remnants and relics depicting Fort Canning’s military history, including the Fort Wall, Fort Gate, Old Gunpowder Magazine, Sally Port and South Battery. The Sally Port is a small door leading in and out of the fort. There is a pair of 9-pound cannon that dates back to the 19th century and had become obsolete before the fortification at Fort Canning was constructed. They were designed to fire 9-pounds cannonballs. Most probably it was used at Scandal Point, an earlier fortification at the east end of Padang, an iconic and historical Field along St. Andrews Road.
Cupolas were designed by Singapore’s first architect, George Coleman. An architect by profession, Coleman was Singapore’s first architect and Raffles’ consultant on the first Town Plan who also assumed the role of Superintendent of Public Works in 1833, Coleman also designed several buildings including the nearby Armenian Church and a private house which after modification stands as Singapore’s Parliament House, now an Art House at Old Parliament.
He is also believed to be the designer of Istana Kampong Glam, though this cannot be verified. The istana (palace) was constructed for the descendants of Sultan Hussein Shah. Sultan Hussein Shah is not to be confused with Sultan Iskandar Shah. Sultan Hussein Shah was brought to Singapore in early 19th century by the British and settled at Kampong Glam. The last ancient king of Singapore and whose keramat at Fort Canning was said to belong to Iskandar Shah, who died in the 14th century.
Sultan Hussein Shah died in Melaka; a kingdom founded by Sultan Iskandar Shah. George Coleman died in Singapore in 1844 and was buried at Fort Canning. He oversaw the works of the Singapore’s first Christian cemetery. This burial ground was used from 1822 to 1865. There is a street and a bridge in the city centre in honour of Coleman. There is a pair of Gothic-style gates at north and south entrances to the cemetery. The gates were designed by Superintending Engineer Captain Charles Edward Faber, who Mount Faber was named after. Fort Canning Green field is in-between the two gothic gates.
A service reservoir was constructed in 1926 on the former site of a large artillery barracks and parade ground to supplement water supply in the vicinity. This reservoir, at the top-most point of the hill and fenced-up is still in used today. Before this reservoir was built, a spring gushing from the southwest side of this hill served as an important source of water for centuries. Including Fort Canning reservoir, there are a total of 17 freshwater reservoirs in Singapore.
Nine new historic-themed gardens are recently developed. Among them are:
- Sang Nila Utama Garden which reimagines the Southeast Asian palace gardens of old. Probably the prettiest garden among the nine themed gardens. Named after Singapore's first king who landed on this island in 1299 and built his royal palace on this hill. The garden reimagines the ancient royal garden with fruit trees and flowering plants. There are many beautiful ixora including in bright yellow, red, white and pink. They include 'super' and 'dwarf pink', ixora coccinea and crimson star. The common roadside or wayside ixoras are beautifully landscaped in this garden.
For the fruit orchard, tropical fruit trees are planted included durian and rambutan. Durian has existed in Singapore for centuries since the 14th century and you can still find durian tree in Fort Canning. The inspiration for the architecture of the brickworks at the two entrances of the garden is inspired by the 14th century Majapahit-era brick split gate of Trowulan in East Java. There is also Pancur Larangan or Forbidden Spring which is a recreation of the ancient bath on the opposite side of this garden. The Fort Canning Park has signages all over the place that will point to all attractions and various themed gardens.
- The lower east slope of Fort Canning Hill was probably home to an artisan's quarter, where ceramic production and jewellery-making, such as goldsmithing as well as glassmaking, took place.Artisan's Garden is a recreation of an artisan's village, where craftsmen made fine wares for the kings living on the hill. Thus, we can learn about archeology and the fascinating artefacts that have been unearthed in Fort Canning Park.
Many other artefacts like ceramics, white and blue porcelain, stoneware, earth ware, whiteware and greenware are displayed around the main excavation dig area. There is also an interesting display of opium pot. In the 19th century, opium farming was common and supported by the British government due to the lucrative profits it yielded.
- Raffles Garden. Named after the modern founder of Singapore, Sir Stamford Raffles (1781-1826), it showcases the diverse plant species that Raffles encountered in South-East Asia. While he is mostly remembered as the modern founder of Singapore, Raffles was a keen naturalist who spent his free time studying botany and wildlife.
Do you know that the largest flower in the world, Rafflesia is named after Raffles? Look-out for specimens of Raffles Pitcher Plant as you stroll around the garden. Sir Stamford Raffles has a fascination with carnivorous plants. There are also cocoa trees, one of the crops Raffles brought to Singapore trying to strengthen the colony's position in the spice trade.
- Farquhar Garden. Named after Major-General William Farquhar, the first British Resident and Commandant of Singapore, it features some of the species that Farquhar found noteworthy while exploring the Malay Peninsula. Similarly, like Raffles, Farquhar was also an avid naturalist.
- Spice Garden which represents Raffles’ inspiration to start a spice plantation on the hill after he saw the luxuriant growth of flora in the area. The area is mainly planted by pretty flowering plants such as bamboo orchids.
There is indeed a huge diversity of flora planted all over the park and within themed gardens, including Singapore's common heritage and native trees. It is a pleasant and still the perennial romantic park to spend half a day in admiring the flowers and plants and also the history of the place dotted with sculptures, cupolas, gothic gates, cannons, archeological site and many others interesting displays and artefacts. The Registry of Marriages, ROM, is located just next to the park and is connected to it. Couldn't get more romantic than that. Newly-weds can be seen taking photos in the park and at the cupolas.
As the garden is centrally located it is quite accessible by public transport. There are many accesses to the park, and they are all quite close to MRT stations including Fort Canning MRT Station, Dhoby Ghaut MRT Station and Bras Basah MRT Station. Jubilee Park is closer to Fort Canning station and there are steps up to get to the hill. At the foothill there is also remnant of the demolished iconic National Theater. Fort Canning Park is also located conveniently just behind and above the National Museum, which is closer to Bras Basah MRT Station.
 |
| Badang Terrace along Five Kings Walk |
At Government Hill the British built and housed a communication center, with important communication devices such as the flagstaff, time ball, lighthouse and a telegraph office. Now the flagstaff, the 12 metres tall aluminium timeball and lighthouse at the hill, at Maritime Corner, are replicas of the original that used to stand on Fort Canning Hill. The flagstaff provided pertinent information on the arrival, identity, location, and status of ships entering Singapore harbour. The timeball was a device to signal the correct time to the public in the 19th century.
 |
| Nutmeg tree and the Keramat |
During the period of global exploration and colonisation, spices were equivalent to gold, and competition were fierce among the Dutch, Portuguese, English and Spanish for control over the sources and routes of the South-East Asia's Spice Islands and India. Thus, the founding of Singapore played an important role in giving British traders a foothold in South-East Asia and marked the beginning of the decline of Dutch monopoly of the spice trade.
In 1822 due to the hill’s vantage point Sir Stamford Raffles built his bungalow near the "18th Century Walk", and it was to become the place of residence for subsequent residents including John Crawfurd, the second Resident. Also, in1822, Sir Stamford Raffles, being a keen naturalist, set up the first Botanical Experimental Garden in Singapore on Government Hill. Raffles aimed to introduce the cultivation of economic crops in Singapore. The Garden stared out with 125 nutmeg trees, 1,000 nutmeg seeds and 450 clove trees, thus forming the foundation of Singapore’s Spice plantation which eventually dominated the island landscape for the next 35 years, though by late 1820s the spice plantation became less and less profitable and the experimental garden was populated with ornamental and fragrant trees.
 |
| 9-Pound Cannon |
Government hill was converted into a fort in 1860 and renamed Fort Canning in honour of Lord Charles John Canning, the last Governor-General of India from 1856 to 1858 under the British East India Company. He was made the first Viceroy of India in 1858 and became Earl Canning the following year. Around 1920s to 1930s, the hill was transformed into an artillery fort with barracks, officers’ quarters, old gunpowder magazine and a hospital.
The fort served two purposes, to protect Singapore from attack by sea, and to give Singapore’s European population a refuge in the event of local disturbances such as the Indian mutiny of 1857. The fort low thick wall was meant to withstand artillery bombardment rather than to repel an infantry attack. It was constructed of granite on the outside and a brick facing the interior, with earthen fill to absorb cannon balls. The granite to build Fort Canning probably came from Pulau Ubin. When the British cleared the summit to build the fort, they left the keramat, the sacred tomb, undisturbed which you can still visit till this day. It was said that the forbidden hill is inhabited by ghosts, with the "sounds as of a hundred of men... heavy drums and of people shouting".
 |
| ASEAN Sculpture, Unity |
The attack on Singapore began with a diversionary attack on Pulau Ubin on 7 February 1942. By the next day, the Japanese made an amphibious landing on the north-west part of Singapore and began their push towards the city which was already being bombed heavily. The British, Australian, Indian and Malay troops commanded by Lt. General Arthur Percival, were ill-prepared for the ferocious onslaught. By 15th February, that fateful decision was made that changed history.
 |
| The Battle Box |
The former military headquarters has now become Hotel Fort Canning and the Legends at Fort Canning Park. There is a street at Fort Canning bordering ASEAN Sculpture Garden named after Percival. There is a museum in the eastern part of Singapore called Changi Museum and Chapel that is dedicated to the darkest days in Singapore's and the prisoners of war during World War II. At the ASEAN Sculpture Garden there are pieces of sculptures by various artists from the ASEAN countries. The pieces include Balance, Unity (as shown above), Together, Concentration, Fredesvinda and Augury.
 |
| Gothic Gate |
Cupolas were designed by Singapore’s first architect, George Coleman. An architect by profession, Coleman was Singapore’s first architect and Raffles’ consultant on the first Town Plan who also assumed the role of Superintendent of Public Works in 1833, Coleman also designed several buildings including the nearby Armenian Church and a private house which after modification stands as Singapore’s Parliament House, now an Art House at Old Parliament.
He is also believed to be the designer of Istana Kampong Glam, though this cannot be verified. The istana (palace) was constructed for the descendants of Sultan Hussein Shah. Sultan Hussein Shah is not to be confused with Sultan Iskandar Shah. Sultan Hussein Shah was brought to Singapore in early 19th century by the British and settled at Kampong Glam. The last ancient king of Singapore and whose keramat at Fort Canning was said to belong to Iskandar Shah, who died in the 14th century.
Sultan Hussein Shah died in Melaka; a kingdom founded by Sultan Iskandar Shah. George Coleman died in Singapore in 1844 and was buried at Fort Canning. He oversaw the works of the Singapore’s first Christian cemetery. This burial ground was used from 1822 to 1865. There is a street and a bridge in the city centre in honour of Coleman. There is a pair of Gothic-style gates at north and south entrances to the cemetery. The gates were designed by Superintending Engineer Captain Charles Edward Faber, who Mount Faber was named after. Fort Canning Green field is in-between the two gothic gates.
 |
| Sang Nila Utama Garden |
Nine new historic-themed gardens are recently developed. Among them are:
- Sang Nila Utama Garden which reimagines the Southeast Asian palace gardens of old. Probably the prettiest garden among the nine themed gardens. Named after Singapore's first king who landed on this island in 1299 and built his royal palace on this hill. The garden reimagines the ancient royal garden with fruit trees and flowering plants. There are many beautiful ixora including in bright yellow, red, white and pink. They include 'super' and 'dwarf pink', ixora coccinea and crimson star. The common roadside or wayside ixoras are beautifully landscaped in this garden.
For the fruit orchard, tropical fruit trees are planted included durian and rambutan. Durian has existed in Singapore for centuries since the 14th century and you can still find durian tree in Fort Canning. The inspiration for the architecture of the brickworks at the two entrances of the garden is inspired by the 14th century Majapahit-era brick split gate of Trowulan in East Java. There is also Pancur Larangan or Forbidden Spring which is a recreation of the ancient bath on the opposite side of this garden. The Fort Canning Park has signages all over the place that will point to all attractions and various themed gardens.
 |
| Archeological dig |
There is a permanent display of the archeological dig. Some of the artefacts at Fort Canning are on display in the National Museum, which is right below Fort Canning Hill and included gold ornaments possibly belonged to the ancient rulers who lived on the forbidden hill on the 14th century. It is believed many ornaments disappeared during the Japanese occupation of Singapore.
Many other artefacts like ceramics, white and blue porcelain, stoneware, earth ware, whiteware and greenware are displayed around the main excavation dig area. There is also an interesting display of opium pot. In the 19th century, opium farming was common and supported by the British government due to the lucrative profits it yielded.
 |
| Raffles Garden with flagstaff in the background |
Do you know that the largest flower in the world, Rafflesia is named after Raffles? Look-out for specimens of Raffles Pitcher Plant as you stroll around the garden. Sir Stamford Raffles has a fascination with carnivorous plants. There are also cocoa trees, one of the crops Raffles brought to Singapore trying to strengthen the colony's position in the spice trade.
- Farquhar Garden. Named after Major-General William Farquhar, the first British Resident and Commandant of Singapore, it features some of the species that Farquhar found noteworthy while exploring the Malay Peninsula. Similarly, like Raffles, Farquhar was also an avid naturalist.
- Spice Garden which represents Raffles’ inspiration to start a spice plantation on the hill after he saw the luxuriant growth of flora in the area. The area is mainly planted by pretty flowering plants such as bamboo orchids.
- Jubilee Park. A daily-friendly spaces for children's play area, outdoor events and performances. It is at the foothills near Fort Canning MRT Station. Up the steps are an outdoor fitness station just before the start of the Five Kings' walk.
- And to round it off are the Armenian Street and the First Botanic Garden where various plants are grown, and cash crops experimented with during the 19th Century.
 |
| Two Cupolas at Fort Canning Green |
As the garden is centrally located it is quite accessible by public transport. There are many accesses to the park, and they are all quite close to MRT stations including Fort Canning MRT Station, Dhoby Ghaut MRT Station and Bras Basah MRT Station. Jubilee Park is closer to Fort Canning station and there are steps up to get to the hill. At the foothill there is also remnant of the demolished iconic National Theater. Fort Canning Park is also located conveniently just behind and above the National Museum, which is closer to Bras Basah MRT Station.
Comments
Post a Comment