Changi Village and Changi Point
A Rustic Village steeped in Colonial History with Nature Trails, Nasi Lemak and Sandy Beaches
A Village Rooted in History
In the 1800s, Changi was famous for its coconut plantations. By 1845, Changi Point had already become a fashionable retreat for picnics and beach parties. Before British colonisation, the area around Sungei Changi—more commonly known as Changi Creek, a short river that runs alongside Changi Beach Park—was inhabited by indigenous Malay communities. These kampongs relied on the creek for fishing, which was their primary source of livelihood. While some coastal villages sustained themselves through trade, inland villages depended on agriculture.
At Changi Village—also known as the 14½ milestone of Changi Road—many facilities sprouted up prior to World War II to serve British officers and the families of Royal Air Force personnel. The village's economy remained closely tied to the British military presence well into the 1970s.
Changi Today: A Rustic Escape
Today, Changi Village remains a rustic corner at Singapore's eastern edge. Due to its proximity to Changi Airport, the tallest building here is barely five storeys high. If you stroll along Changi Beach toward Nicol Drive, you can see—and hear—how low the planes fly as they approach the runway. Compared to the glitz of Marina Bay, Orchard Road, or the CBD, Changi Village feels like a different world: tranquil, unhurried, and distinctly kampong in atmosphere.
Every weekend, long queues form at Malay stalls selling fragrant nasi lemak at the Changi Village Hawker Centre, which occupies Blocks 2 and 3 along Changi Village Road. The queues persist on weekday lunchtimes too, drawing crowds from nearby Changi Point and Loyang. These blocks were redeveloped by the Housing & Development Board from former British military bases into a market and hawker centre.
 |
| A classic plate of nasi lemak at Changi Village |
As you turn into Changi Village Road—whether from Loyang Avenue or Telok Paku Road—you will pass the Sree Ramar Hindu Temple before reaching a long stretch of shophouses on both sides selling food and sundries. The row of cafés along Changi Village Road offers a good variety of dining options too.
For a sweet treat, stop by Makan Melaka in the shophouses next to the hawker centre for a bowl of chendol Melaka (around S$3). Melaka, a UNESCO World Heritage town in Malaysia, is famous for this dessert, and this stall does a respectable version of it.
Island Hopping from Changi Point Ferry Terminal
The Changi Point Ferry Terminal, located just by the hawker centre and bus terminal, is your gateway to Pulau Ubin, a kampong island, equally rustic yet calm like Changi Village. The traditional bumboat—resembling a village fishing boat—costs S$4 one way or S$8 return. Pulau means "island" in Malay.
The ferry terminal also serves Pengerang, Johor, Malaysia—though for this route you will need to bring your passport. The jetty itself likely predates British arrival, originally used by local fishermen to dock boats and transport goods. During British and Japanese occupation, it supported military operations, facilitating the movement of personnel and supplies. After significant upgrades, the terminal now serves both Pulau Ubin and Pengerang, and it is a relief that the traditional bumboat experience remains.
Note on Ferry Terminals
There are actually several ferry terminals in the area:
- Changi Point Ferry Terminal → Pulau Ubin & Pengerang
- Changi Ferry Terminal → Tanjong Belungkor (near Desaru, Johor)
- Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal → Batam & Bintan (Indonesia)
Both Changi Ferry Terminal and Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal are further east of Changi Point, beyond the SAF Ferry Terminal (which is off-limits to the public). Visitors often confuse Changi Point Ferry Terminal with Changi Ferry Terminal. The proximity of these terminals to Changi Airport makes flight-to-ferry transfers convenient—especially with the upcoming Changi Terminal 5 under construction nearby along Changi Coast Road.
 |
| Changi Point Ferry Terminal: Gateway to Pulau Ubin |
The Changi Tree and the Hopea Sangal
Locally known as Chengal Pasir or Chengal Mata Kuching, the Hopea sangal is thought to be the tree that gave Changi its name—though it may also derive from another species, Neobalanocarpus heimii, a tall and sturdy hardwood tree.
Once common in the area, the Hopea sangal was believed extinct until a surviving tree was discovered in 2002. For 150 years, that tree withstood the forces of nature, witnessed the tragedies of World War II, and saw the birth of the nation—only to be illegally felled by developers in November 2002, mere months after its rediscovery.
Fortunately, seeds had been collected beforehand. Some seedlings were planted in Changi, producing a new Hopea sangal, while a sapling was also presented to the Singapore Zoo.
Do not confuse this with the legendary "Changi Tree" (Sindora wallichii), a very tall landmark tree that the British removed during WWII to prevent the Japanese from using it as an artillery marker. A specimen of Sindora wallichii can be seen outside the Changi Chapel and Museum along Upper Changi Road North. The museum has since adopted the "New Changi Tree" to replace the Hopea sangal in its displays—confusing, perhaps, but the name Changi is certainly derived from a chengal species, even if the exact one remains uncertain.
Changi Point Coastal Walk
The scenic Changi Point Coastal Walk begins right behind the Changi Point Ferry Terminal. At roughly 2.2 km, the trail is short, flat, and suitable for all ages. It is part of the larger Eastern Region's 35 km Park Connector Network (PCN); from here, Pasir Ris Park is only 8 km away via Loyang Park.
 |
| Changi Point Coastal Walk with Pulau Ubin in the background |
As you walk, signs point to various scenic segments:
- Beach Walk
- Cliff Walk
- Creek Walk
- Sailing Point Walk
- Kelong Walk — Kelong is local lingo for a wooden fishing platform. These are now rare in urban Singapore; most enthusiasts head to Malaysia to experience them.
The boardwalk offers a breathtaking view of the open sea amid lush greenery. If you are interested in military history, storyboards along the trail highlight significant landmarks of yesteryear. You may need to walk slightly off the main path to reach some buildings, but the quiet neighbourhood makes for a pleasant detour.
Look out for storyboards about:
- 42 Hendon Road — former Headquarters of the British Royal Engineers
- 35 and 36 Hendon Road - former Headquarters for the Far East Air Forces
- 52 and 53 Biggin Hill — former married quarters for British forces stationed at Battery Hills
- Changi Country Club (Civil Service Club) — formerly the Transit Hotel where RAF officers would have breakfast before flights
British Military Heritage and the POW Era
Changi Cantonment
In 1926, the British Army planned a military base with artillery batteries to protect Singapore's eastern front along the Johor Straits. Construction of administrative buildings, barracks, residences, and amenities began in 1927. The buildings were designed to blend with the hilly terrain and surrounding greenery while offering sea views. These bases were collectively known as Changi Cantonment. Upon completion in 1937, Changi Village grew as traders and hawkers established themselves to serve base personnel. Shophouses housed retail stores, bakeries, photo shops, and Western cafés such as the Changi Milk Bar and Tong Sing.
 |
| Former RAF barracks along Hendon Road. Part of Changi Cantonment, now fenced off |
World War II and the Japanese Occupation
During the Japanese Occupation (1942–1945), the Changi area and its barracks were used as a prisoner-of-war (POW) camp. From 17 February 1942 onwards, over 40,000 POWs were held in various Changi camps. Many internees were put to work building a nearby airstrip as part of a Japanese airbase.
After the war, the returning British strengthened the airstrip with the help of Japanese surrendered personnel for use by heavy military transport aircraft—an ironic turn of events. This airstrip eventually became part of modern Changi Airport when, from the 1970s onward, the kampongs of Changi made way for land reclamation and development.
The Former Changi Hospital
Perhaps the area's most intriguing site is the former Changi Hospital, built in the 1930s as the RAF Hospital. Today, it is the subject of many supernatural stories.
- Block 24 Halton Road was among the first military barracks in Changi Point. Halton Road was formerly known as Battery Hill.
- The RAF established a hospital in 1947 at Block 37 and a converted Block 24. Block 37 was part of Kitchener Barracks.
- In 1962, a six-storey Block 161 was added to link Blocks 24 and 37.
- The hospital continued as the ANZUK (Australia, New Zealand, UK) Military Hospital until 1975.
- It briefly became the UK Military Hospital, then was taken over by the Singapore Armed Forces (SAF) in 1976 as SAF Hospital for six months, before being transferred to the Ministry of Health.
- It was merged with the nearby Changi Chalet Hospital (established 1974) to become Changi Hospital, which closed in early 1997.
The current Changi General Hospital is located in Simei, further inland. The quiet area around Halton Road is now teeming with native wild Oriental Pied Hornbills, making it a draw for nature photographers.
 |
| The abandoned Blocks 24 and 161 of the former Changi Hospital, now fenced off |
Kitchener Barracks should not be confused with Roberts Barracks, now part of Changi Air Base. Roberts Barracks was where POW Stanley Warren painted a series of five murals, including The Last Supper and The Nativity. During WWII, Roberts Barracks was converted into a POW hospital. Replicas of the murals and chapel can be seen at the Changi Museum and Chapel, near Selarang Barracks.
Visiting the Old Hospital and Surrounding Roads
To see the Old Changi Hospital—now abandoned and fenced up—walk about 15 minutes from Changi Village Food Centre toward Changi Sailing Club along Netheravon Road. Turn left onto Sealand Road (before the sailing club), then right onto Halton Road.
Netheravon Road is a long stretch where you can continue toward Cranwell Road, Hendon Road, and Fairy Point to admire former military barracks and bungalows. One bungalow along Netheravon Road, now occupied by the Civil Service Club, was once used by a Japanese army section under Lieutenant Okazaki as a POW camp, and later became the RAF Transit Hotel. Some bungalows with dark histories have been turned into holiday chalets, though many are now private or restricted to exclusive use.
Along this stretch, look out for large heritage trees, including the rare Ficus stricta, a species of strangling fig.
 |
| ALOHA Sign at Civil Service Club. It was a POW camp during WWII |
Changi Beach: Relaxation, Wildlife, and Dark History
Leisure by the Sea
If your goal is simply to chill, the long stretch of sandy Changi Beach is ideal for a stroll or a dip in the open sea. Showering facilities are available. You can rent a bike (around S$6–S$8 per hour) from a rental station along the beach and return it at another PCN-connected park. There are also children's playgrounds and outdoor fitness stations, all free.
For water sports, a sea sports club offers kayak rentals. During the 1970s and 1980s, Changi Beach Park was known as the "Sentosa of Singapore," home to Aloha Rhu Village, which opened in 1971.
Wildlife
- Otters are commonly sighted swimming quite close to the beach.
- Plane watchers gather along the beach east of Changi Point to admire low-flying jets approaching Changi Airport.
- Bird watchers come for the Oriental Pied Hornbills, which have made Changi Beach and nearby Hendon Road their roosting place.
- The vast Changi Beach Park is also home to huge rain trees and gelam (Melaleuca cajuputi) trees.
 |
| Oriental Pied Hornbill is a common sighting at Changi Beach and Changi Village |
The Sook Ching Massacre
Changi Beach holds a sombre place in Singapore's history. During the Sook Ching Massacre in February 1942, Chinese males suspected of anti-Japanese activities were systematically executed along the beach. Many victims were buried in mass graves dug by POWs interned in the Changi area. A plaque commemorating the Changi Beach Massacre stands here. For a deeper understanding of the POW experience and Singapore's darkest days, visit the Changi Museum and Chapel.
Intertidal Walks
Intertidal walks during low tide are growing in popularity. Some parts of Changi Beach can get crowded on weekends with families bringing shovels to observe marine creatures. It is best to admire these animals from a distance, leaving them undisturbed so the ecosystem remains intact for others to enjoy.
Notable Sights and Activities
The Giant Finger Sculpture
Near Changi Point, look out for the large sculpture of a finger pointing skyward. Titled "Inscription of the Island" by sculptor Lim Soon Ngee, this oversized left hand was first displayed on the lawn of the Singapore Art Museum along Bras Basah Road.
 |
| "Inscription of the Island"—the giant finger sculpture by Lim Soon Ngee |
Fishing and Cycling
Changi Village's kampong vibe extends to its shops. There are at least three fishing tackle stores across from the hawker centre—Shimano, Riverland Tackle, Gary's Tackle, and Changi Pro Tackle—offering rods, reels, and repair services. A bike accessories shop is also available.
Where to Eat
Changi Village is a food lover's destination. At the hawker centre, seek out:
- Nasi Lemak: Mizzy Corner, Changi Famous Nasi Lemak, Lots of Lemak, and International Muslim Nasi Lemak, to name a few.
- Charlie's Corner: Once located in a shophouse, now in the hawker centre, known for fish and chips.
- Satay and Seafood: Several stalls serve the iconic chilli crab—still cheaper than restaurant prices, though crabs remain a splurge.
- Nam Mei Traditional Coffee: Enjoy kopi strained through traditional "socks," paired with kaya toast.
- Hawker favourites: Carrot cake, noodles, and more.
 |
| Changi Village Hawker Centre |
Getting There
By Public Transport
The easiest route is via the Downtown Line (Blue Line) to Upper Changi MRT Station, then take Bus 2 from Exit A. This bus terminates right in front of the hawker centre.
The same bus passes the Changi Museum and Chapel (free entry for locals; S$9 for foreign visitors; closed Mondays).
Other bus services to Changi Village include Buses 29, 59, and 109. Bus 29 departs from Tampines Interchange and takes a scenic route along Netheravon Road, where you can glimpse historical bungalows from the window. To see them up close, alight and walk.
The upcoming Loyang MRT Station will bring visitors even closer in the coming years. One can only hope that the village's tranquility survives the arrival of the MRT.
Comments
Post a Comment